Magic Transformations

Recently I spent the morning making granola for our daughter and her family, baking two kinds of cookies (for a cookie potluck at church), and banana chocolate chip muffins for when the grandchildren come over. While I was busy with that, I listened to CBC's Jian Ghomeshi interviewing Michael Pollan who has written Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation.

Pollan told Ghomeshi and his listeners some interesting things about cooking that I think I know intuitively but have never heard expressed before. In the past, everyone just sort of took for granted the amazing things our forebears (mostly the women) managed to accomplish through their cooking. Pollan says that cooking, above all, connects us to one another since it involves us in a web of social and ecological relationships. Cooking gives us our identity and our culture. It helps us reconnect with our family. Cooking requires patience, practice and presence. Cooking can become a political act: I can decide what kind of agriculture I want to support!

As we rely more and more on corporations to process our food, several things happen. We consume large quantities of fat, sugar and salt; we disrupt our link to the natural world; and we weaken our relationships with family and friends. "Taking back control of cooking may be the single most important step anyone can take to help make our food system healthier and more sustainable," argues Pollan. "Reclaiming cooking as an act of enjoyment and self-reliance, and learning to perform the magic of these everyday transformations, opens the door to a more nourishing life." Homemade food is much healthier than what you buy on the shelves. You can be liberal with butter and salt while doing your own cooking and it will still be healthier than the food you buy, claims Pollan.

I have enjoyed the culinary arts all my life. Growing up, my sister and I had to help Mom with the chores. I always chose cooking over cleaning. Fortunately my sister preferred cleaning! I never really thought about why I liked cooking but it began to make sense to me as I listened to Michael Pollan's wise words.

                       

Two new cookbooks I'm enjoying these days are Mennonite Girls Can Cook and Celebrations, both by the same authors. The recipes of the second book are divided into sections that celebrate passages of life, such as Birth, Childhood, Marriage, Family, Outdoors, Community, Hospitality, Milestones, Holidays, and Life. My husband and I and two of our grandchildren went to our local Ten Thousand Villages store for the book-signing of Celebrations and purchased a copy. Our four-year-old granddaughter Sasha, sitting in her car seat in the back of the car, was entranced with the gorgeous photos and didn't put the book down until we got home.

I've never really thought about this while preparing food for family and friends, but I read recently (on a page of the website <thirdway.com/AW/>) under 'Today's Stress Tip,' that "cooking is a microcosm of life." Cooking requires a number of skills that are actually survival skills in our world. Planning skills are involved, as well as knowledge, judgment and economy, as we think about what to cook and make our purchases. Our artistic ability comes into play as we plan the makeup and presentation of the meal. This all has to be done within a reasonable time frame and in a spirit of conviviality and graciousness. Cooking helps us develop the skills to succeed at pretty much everything else. 

... the magic of these everyday transformations ...

Ukrainian Hospitality

As a little girl growing up in a remote Mennonite village in the Paraguayan Chaco, I observed my mother baking bread almost every day. It was magical to see that pile of dough double in size after my mother added the yeast or starter dough, then kneaded and pummeled it and set it in a warm place. The smell of bread baking in the clay outdoor oven lingers with me still.

Eggs had their own magical qualities. Carefully gathering the warm brown eggs laid by our free-range chickens, I brought them to Mom in my apron. The white could be separated from the yolk with some careful maneuvering. Mom would beat the egg white turning it first into foam, and then, as it became stiffer, into a delectable topping for cookies and cake. She beat the yellow with sugar, and it became a tasty treat!

Watermelon harvest was a veritable feast. Watermelon could change its original shape, texture, smell and flavor – from juicy, sweet, and crunchy when fresh, to sticky syrup we could put on our bread and Rollkuchen (fritters), or to vinegar-flavored pickles.

Another transformation happened when our mother put sour cream into a large canning jar and asked us to take turns rolling the jar on our laps. It didn't take long and that sour cream turned into solid butter. Amazing!

A pig slaughter was always a village feast in which all participated; everyone stayed up later than usual. The women stirred the lard, harvested the cracklings at the bottom of the pot, and made head cheese. Meanwhile the men and boys ended up playing soccer with the blown-up pig bladder, and the younger children played "Hide and Seek." (It's another whole game when played in the dark!)

I ask myself, what memories my children have taken with them into adulthood that involve cooking and baking? What are my grandchildren learning about this important life skill? What am I teaching them about the magic of these everyday transformations?